Different patterns have to be made for woven fabrics and for stretch fabrics because of how the fabric is made and in turn how the fabric reacts.
Below outlines their properties and what that means for pattern cutting.
Understanding the grain line
Why is the grain line important?
Understanding the grain line of your fabric is very important as it will have an effect on the overall drape of the garment and therefore the fit. If you cut out your fabric with the grain line slightly off, then the garment will pull/distort in strange ways.
The grain line is always parallel to the selvedge edges (the sides which were held onto the loom during weaving).
Above shows a bolt of fabric and the grain-line and selvedge edges to give you a better understanding. When a pattern is cut with the grain then the grain-line always runs up and down the body. This is shown with an arrow on every pattern piece.
Sometimes a pattern should be cut on the bias. This means the pattern should be cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain line. This allows the fabric to drape in a less rigid way. For example a cowl neck or silk camisole are normally cut on the bias. In this case the arrow will be at a 45 degree angle to the body and this is marked on your pattern pieces with an arrow.
The main woven blocks
To form any pattern, ‘pattern blocks’ are used. These blocks don’t have any seam or hem allowances, or design features and are usually made from thick cardstock so they can be used again and again. They act as templates which can be drawn around and then adapted to the design required.
Each company will have their own set of pattern blocks that they will use to make all of their designs. This is why you will often find the same size in different shops will fit very differently.
Below shows the main basic blocks used in pattern cutting for woven fabrics.
There are other basic blocks such as the overcoat blocks, two piece sleeve block etc. but these blocks here form the basis to learn how to pattern cut. You'll get all of these block free if you join one of my courses.
The main stretch blocks
A different set of basic blocks are used for stretch/knit fabrics than for woven fabrics. This is because, as explained above, stretch/knit fabrics will naturally form to the body therefore the pattern pieces don’t need darts like woven fabric blocks require.
Below shows the main basic blocks used in pattern cutting for stretch/knit fabrics.
There are other basic blocks such as jacket blocks, legging blocks, bodysuit and swimwear blocks etc. but these blocks here form the basis to learn how to pattern cut.
You can get your own printable versions here on my Etsy shop, so you can start creating your own patterns at home for knit fabrics and woven fabrics.
I hope these examples helped you understand the difference between woven and stretch fabrics a bit better.
If you'd like to stay up to date with our sewing tips and tricks follow me on Instagram at @thesewingretreat
Happy sewing,
Sarah x
P.S. I'm a real person, send me a DM on Instagram or an email to hello@thesewingretreat.co.uk if you have any questions, I'd love to hear from you :)
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